After our time in Munich in November, Julie, Elena, Mark and myself took a train through the mountains and across the border into Zurich – a spectacularly scenic journey! There we were enthusiastically received by Andreas Isler and Katharina Haslwanter who look after the Pacific collections at the Ethnographic Museum of the University of Zurich (VMZ). The museum is currently closed for refurbishment but we were given us a ‘hard-hat’ tour of the building site and Andreas talked us through the extensive renovations which will allow for exciting new permanent displays and temporary exhibition spaces. Curators will certainly have an opportunity to do exciting things with the ethnography collections here – this is one to watch! Zurich is such a major centre on the international contemporary art scene, it will be interesting to see how they embed the narrative of world ethnography collections into the city’s long-standing dialogue with art.

Elena, Mark, Julie, Andreas and Katharina. Photo Maia Nuku.

Next morning we returned to work through the collections. Once again Elena was guiding us towards a specific collection of artefacts associated with Johann Caspar Horner, astronomer on Krusenstern’s expedition (1803-06). The museum has 2,600 Pacific artefacts in its collections and Julie & I were keen to begin working with the Micronesian collections. Once again Mark Adams was keen to size up some potential shots of the museum environment and was particularly taken with the exterior of the ‘bunker’ where the collections are stored. As with so many university collections which date to the late eighteenth & early nineteenth centuries, the museum is set in the grounds of botanical gardens and we toured the gardens which were quite spectacular in the fading splendour of late autumn light.

Our hosts felt we should also take the opportunity to visit the Pacific collections which are displayed in the fabulous Rietberg Museum and helped us navigate the city tram through icy streets to the historic Villa Wesendonck, south of the city centre. Owned by a wealthy silk merchant, Otto Wesendonck was a great admirer of Wagner and placed the villa at the composer’s disposal when he visited Zurich in 1852. We walked in through the grand entrance hall and ascended the staircase: totally breathtaking as you soak up the light and glistening polish of marble which drapes over every surface. Stepping into the first gallery, the first two rooms are devoted to Oceanic arts which was startling and uplifting at the same time. Mark Adams lingered in the first room taking shots of a wonderful tauihu and carved pou and we nodded at each other – no words needed to explain just how strange and enlightening it can be to encounter taonga maori in a context so far removed from home.

Pacific objects. Photo Maia Nuku.

We were lucky to catch a major exhibition: Art in dialogue: Europe & Persia (27 Sept 2013 – 12 January 2014) during our visit which fused history, science & art in a bold display featuring early manuscripts and cartography, ceramics, prints & paintings, applied arts & strongly politicised contemporary works. Tearing ourselves away at closing time, we came outside & prepared to head back into the city when it began to snow: pure magic. Umbrellas held high, our feet crunched underfoot as we explored the streets of Zurich. Art & creativity is everywhere in this city: I spied off-beat art installations in hidden walkways, artful window displays and elegant street lighting – all a visual feast for the eyes. Zurich is also famously the birthplace of Dada of course so when we inadvertently passed Cabaret Voltaire, Mark shrieked with delight & we took some time out to descend into the basement where he spent a few quiet moments paying silent tribute.

Mark. Photo Maia Nuku.

After warming up with a glass of warm gluhwein, the decision was taken by our hosts that we ought to be educated in the fine art of fondue eating! Washed down with a glass of local kirsch it was quite the best way to finish a perfect Swiss day.

Maia Nuku